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Food markets in central Rome, for when you have a kitchen

Where to shop, and what to buy in season

Market stalls under white umbrellas in Campo de' Fiori

Photo: Myrabella, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The nearest food market to the historic centre is Campo de' Fiori, held in the square of the same name from Monday to Saturday mornings. For a larger, more local market, Mercato Trionfale in Prati is one of the biggest in Rome and about thirty minutes from the centre on foot, or a short metro ride. Smaller neighbourhood markets, including one directly below our Terrace apartment, cover daily shopping.

Which markets are within reach of the centre?

MarketWhereWhenGood for
Campo de' FioriHistoric centreMonday to Saturday morningsFruit, vegetables, flowers. Central and picturesque, with prices to match.
Mercato TrionfaleVia Andrea Doria, PratiMonday to Saturday, mornings into early afternoonEverything. Hundreds of stalls and mostly Roman shoppers.
Mercato di TestaccioVia Beniamino Franklin, TestaccioMonday to Saturday, until mid-afternoonProduce, plus some of Rome's best street food for lunch.
Campagna AmicaVia di San Teodoro 74, by the Circus MaximusWeekendsA farmers' market of producers from the Lazio countryside.

What should you buy?

Whatever is in season, because that is all the good stalls will have. In late winter and spring, Roman artichokes. In winter, puntarelle, the curled chicory dressed with anchovy. In summer, tomatoes, peaches and figs. In autumn, porcini and grapes.

From the delicatessen counters, bring home pecorino romano, guanciale and fresh egg pasta, and you have a carbonara for the price of a starter.

Where do you buy bread?

At a forno. Around Campo de' Fiori, Antico Forno Roscioli on Via dei Chiavari and the Forno Campo de' Fiori on the square both sell pizza bianca, the plain, salted Roman flatbread, by weight and still warm.

Is there somewhere closer for everyday shopping?

Yes. The historic centre has small supermarkets on most main streets. Guests at Campo Marzio Terrace have the easiest shopping of all: a supermarket open all day and a small morning market, selling fruit, vegetables and prepared dishes, directly below the building.

Sources

  • Market days and hours change, particularly around public holidays and in August. Please check before you go.