Photo: Ralf Steinberger from Milan, Berlin + Munich, Italy + Germany, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
For aperitivo in Rome's historic centre, go to a wine bar such as Enoteca Buccone on Via di Ripetta or Il Goccetto near Campo de' Fiori, or to a hotel bar such as the Stravinskij Bar in the garden of the Hotel de Russie. Aperitivo runs from about half past six to half past eight, and all of these are within fifteen minutes' walk of the Spanish Steps.
What is aperitivo?
It is the hour between the end of the day and the beginning of dinner, and Romans take it seriously. You order a drink, something to eat arrives with it, and nobody hurries you. Because dinner starts late, aperitivo is also the best way to stay on Roman time without going hungry.
Where are the best wine bars?
| Wine bar | Address | Go for |
|---|---|---|
| Enoteca Buccone | Via di Ripetta 19 | A family wine shop since 1969, with tables among the shelves. In Campo Marzio. |
| Antica Enoteca | Via della Croce 76b | A long marble counter and frescoed walls, two minutes from the Spanish Steps. |
| Il Goccetto | Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14 | A wine lover's bar with a long list by the glass. |
| Cul de Sac | Piazza di Pasquino 73 | Hundreds of labels and a narrow terrace beside Piazza Navona. |
Where should you go for a cocktail?
The Stravinskij Bar, at Via del Babuino 9, opens onto the terraced garden of the Hotel de Russie and is one of the loveliest places in Rome for a drink outdoors. Salotto 42, on Piazza di Pietra, faces the columns of the Temple of Hadrian. Il Marchese, at Via di Ripetta 162, keeps a remarkable collection of Italian bitters.
Which rooftop terraces are nearby?
Two are within ten minutes of Campo Marzio. The terrace of Zuma, at the top of Palazzo Fendi on Via della Fontanella di Borghese, looks along Via dei Condotti. Cielo, on the roof of the Hotel de la Ville at the top of the Spanish Steps, has the wider view, across the domes to St Peter's.
Or stay in. The terrace of our Campo Marzio Terrace apartment was made for exactly this hour.
What should you order?
A spritz or a Negroni if you want the classic. For wine, ask for something from Lazio, the region around Rome: a white Frascati, or a red Cesanese del Piglio.
Sources
- Bar details change. Please confirm opening hours directly before you go.
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